Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Gardens

Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel train pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds gather.

This is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with round mauve berries on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just north of Bristol town centre.

"I've noticed individuals concealing heroin or whatever in those bushes," says the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He has pulled together a informal group of growers who produce vintage from several discreet city grape gardens nestled in private yards and allotments throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to have an formal title so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.

Urban Wine Gardens Across the Globe

So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of the French capital's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has discovered them all over the globe, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens help urban areas stay greener and ecologically varied. They protect open space from construction by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units inside cities," explains the association's president.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a product of the earth the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a city," adds the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Variety

Returning to the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting left in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the birds may take advantage to feast once more. "This is the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he removes bruised and mouldy berries from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Activities Throughout Bristol

Additional participants of the group are additionally making the most of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of wine from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 vines. "I adore the aroma of these vines. It is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a container of fruit resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the car windows on vacation."

Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has already survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they can continue producing from the soil."

Sloping Vineyards and Natural Production

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established over 150 vines situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting bunches of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the help of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than ÂŁ7 a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually create good, natural wine," she says. "It's very fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing vintage."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins and enter the juice," says Scofield, ankle deep in a container of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown yeast."

Difficult Environments and Inventive Solutions

A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to plant her grapevines, has assembled his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole challenge encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has had to install a fence on

Mary Raymond
Mary Raymond

A seasoned gaming journalist with a passion for slot mechanics and player advocacy.